Saturday, January 13, 2007

Life in the Middle Seat

12/29

It's almost the new year, and you would definitely know it by the crowdedness of this flight. Lisa and I are on our way home to San Francisco. An auspicious place in an auspicious time - San Francisco two days before the new year. Lisa and I are going home early to attend to her father's health. We both decided it was the right thing to do. As Tikka, the Nepali guide said to me once, "Life is important". I don't think I could have said it better, myself.

Since we had open-ended return tickets, we were able to book a flight for today. Since beggars cannot be choosers, Lisa and I take separate seats. We are in separate rows along the middle aisle in the middle seat, the most coveted seat on an airplane if you are a sardine.

The middle seat should serve as the appropriate seat, as I feel like I have lived life in the middle seat for some time now. Between jobs and between livelihoods, this trip has served as some sort of passageway from one phase of my life to the next. Maybe I'm laying the metaphor on a bit thick, but the more I think about it, the more it makes sense. I've been asked by some about whether or not I will return to Asia. Most definitely. As for when,I reply 'when the time is right'. At this point, I'm not exactly sure what I mean by that, but something tells me that I'll know when the time will come to return.

So now comes the age old questions: What country did you like the best? What have you learned? How has your life changed? I feel like I'm answering the essay for a college entrance application. It would be easy to come up with short, canned, terse answers to the above questions. I would be lying to myself if I took this approach. Instead, I can share with you only my raw thoughts of the moment.

Thoughts on Asia
1. I have seen extreme poverty and realize that everyone in the western world is amazing wealthy compared to the majority of Asia.

2. I wish I could say that I loved all of the people from all of the places we visited. Unfortunately, that is not the case. I still hold prejudices and still become quite uncomfortable when I'm completely out of my element. I've also learned to accept this, deal with it, and focus on positive thoughts.

3. I've learned that the best meal you can have is the food from that country. Accept no substitutes.

4. I've learned that Lisa and I can get through any situation together and laugh about it later.



I am resisting the need to summarize the entire trip, especially since I don't consider this to be the end of the trip. I always hate endings, anyways. Take the movies, for example. The movie ends, and you have to get out of your seat only to walk over spilled popcorn and soda cans. You could say this trip was like a trip to the movies. I would say it was more like watching the first two Lord of the Rings movies. It's been a great start, but you know there's more to the story. So I guess I'm finished for now, then. I'll settle down for a bit in San Francisco. I'll attend to my practical matters. I'll settle down with Lisa, my true companion. I'll catch up with family and old friends. I'll pay my taxes, and I'll try to look out for the spilled popcorn and the soda cans on the way out.


Thank you for all of your support and emails. And remember to keep travelling, wherever you are.

--Travelling Sherman

Hong Kong

12/28

Lisa and I are standing next to the Bruce Lee statue at the Avenue of the Stars while the light show in Hong Kong harbor begins. Scores of buildings are lit up in sync with a soundtrack by computer. With every downbeat, a different building light flickers on or off in the distance. I rub my head and am befuddled with amazement. It is in the Guinness Book of World Records for most lights in a light show. Pink Floyd never stood a chance. I wonder how these people on the other side of the pacific became so much smarter than us.

Welcome to Hong Kong, the land of efficiency. As we take the Airport bus into the neighborhood of Kowloon, Lisa and I see row after row of apartments. With a population of almost 7 million people, building up is the desired architectural plan. Street signs in Chinese and in English line up throughout every street corner. You are more likely to get lost in Disneyland than here. Oh yes, I almost forgot - Hong Kong has one of those as well.

It is easy to stay in Hong Kong for days. There's countless different markets. There is a jade market that sells all varieties of jewelry, there are men's a women's markets, there are fruit markets, meat markets and the like. Bargainers from all over the world come here to negotiate prices on various items. While bargaining is nothing new for us, I begin to enjoy it more here in Hong Kong. It's more of a game, more friendly, and most importantly I can leave anytime and not have a fear of being stalked.

Hong Kong is known for its food, especially its tea. Lisa and I take the afternoon in Hong Kong Park and visit the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware. The museum takes you on a journey of tea. Here's what I found out....

(begin tea stuff, skip if uninterested)

  • People have been drinking this tea stuff for thousands of years. It all started with the Han Dynasty back in roughly 206 B.C. They boiled leaves together with some basic spices of spring onions, ginger, mint, dates, dogwood and orange peels.
  • Chinese Tea drinking started in the south until the Tang Dynasty brought it national at around 700 A.D. The Tang Dynasty started the ideas of steeping and powdering tea.
  • The Yuan Dynasty came out with cream tea in the 1200s. They used magnolia flowers along with salt and cream to make their concoction. They started the trend of using fragrant flowers , such as chamomile and chrysanthemum, like we do today.
  • The Ming Dynasty perfected the tea steeping idea in the 1400s. They would wash their teapots and tea leaves and put the dirty water into a slop bowl. Afterwards, they would pour hot water over the tea leaves and wait. The longer the steeping, the more flavor the leaves would give to the tea.
  • The Tibetans also have their own tea. They throw cheese and salt over their tea. The cold weather in the plateau must have made these people crazy enough to put cheese in their tea.
  • The Qing Dynasty came in roughly 1700 and championed the idea of oolong tea. They also steeped their tea. The only difference is that they fill the teapots 3/4 of the way full of leaves. This becomes really popular in the eastern provinces of Chaozhau and Fujian.
  • Even if you don't drink tea, it's nice to see how one beverage can be so ingrained with a society. Tea was the beverage for social occasions, for weddings and other religious ceremonies. So the next time Starbucks slops two teabags into your cup, stop for a minute and think about all of the sacrifices the Chinese made and be grateful.

(End of tea stuff)

The time goes by way too fast and the day is almost done. Soon we will be flying home to the USA. I feel as if there is much more to see in this strange but beautiful city. From the top of Hong Kong island, the mixture of skyscrapers and island chains provide a sharp contrast. Hong Kong to us was a place to stay on the way home to America. However, Hong Kong is a destination in its own right. With clean metros, delicious noodle soups with strange body organs, and dim sum restaurants by the dozen, this place is one of my top destinations. Stop your whining, I say. Hong Kong isn't going anywhere, especially now that the Chinese own the place. I'll be back to this continent sooner or later after a healthy dose of reality.

Keep travelling, wherever you are...

Travelling Sherman

Tuesday, January 09, 2007

Ko Samui (Thailand, Part 4)

12/27

After sitting down upon some rucksacks, we step off the boat for Ko Samui. Each island we have reached in Thailand has become slightly larger than the previous one. Lisa and I along with our friends Stephanie and Melissa step off the ship to find accomodation. The plan is to only stay one day. Melissa and Stephanie plan to go south to Phuket while Lisa and I plan to fly north to Hong Kong. There has been a change of plans to be explained later. Simply put, Ko Samui is simply a rest stop to our final destinations.

Within these 24 hours, we manage to see the Big Buddha housed within the Wat Phra Yai temple. After a short walk past the overpriced beach restaurants, Asian markets and souvenir shops, we reach the temple entrance. At the entrance, there is a flight of stairs leading up to the big golden Buddha himself.

To be honest, it feels good to be in a temple again. I had become accustomed to taking off my shoes, spinning prayer wheels, and looking at the Buddha statues and donation boxes. I walk up the flight of stairs to get a closer look. There sits my golden Buddha friend. He looks different here in Thailand than in Nepal or India. His face is long and has shed a few pounds. It is almost as he's gotten a face lift and a nip/tuck job on the way over here.

The only mildly appalling observation about this Buddha is that when the sun goes down, the locals turn on about 200 flashing incandescent light bulbs. I feel as the carnival just came to town.

As I go back downstairs, Lisa points out the donation area. At first, my skepticism runs high. On second look, I realize that a 20 Baht (roughly $.70) donation allows you to write a name of a loved one on a brick. This brick is then put in a pile and will later be used to build or rebuild parts of the temple. I guess if that Buddha cannot be inside of you, your name can at least inside his temple.

The four of us walk back, catch the red sunset and find a place for dinner. We learn that Thai people make great Pad Thai but bad pub food. At least the Vodka/Red Bull is on sale this evening.

We stay the night in a nice $15 per night place. The only drawback is that it is 500 ft. from the runway. Small sonic booms happen on the half hour, only to fade into the night as the last plane takes off shortly after 10 PM. Tomorrow we leave Thailand - the land of pleasure, and fake Christmas dinners. Until then, keep travelling - wherever you are.

Travelling Sherman

Wednesday, January 03, 2007

Ko Phagnan (Thailand, part 3)

12/26

To be honest, I cannot recall the daily events since the last entry. I only recall faces, foods and sandy beaches. We have been joined on this leg of the journey by our friends Stephanie and Melissa. Both are teachers whom we worked with last year. They are still working as their trip to Thailand is a needed getaway of relaxation.

It was by chance we met them in Ko Tao, as Lisa and I were walking to breakfast. We saw Stephanie and Melissa in a travel office as Stephanie had her wallet taken on the morning boat ride. After all of the details were sorted out, we cruise the island like a gang of girls (plus myself) have become.

The tide is high as the typhoons of the Phillipines affect the weather ever so slightly. The beachlines in Ko Tao shrink by the day, as we are forced further back into the grass. We decide to take an excursion to a monkey reserve on the south shore. We see a handful of monkeys navigating tree branches and canopies using their limbs as easily as we change lanes in traffic. They seem effortless as well as human like in their movements. One monkey, in particular, stands out. Tito, the cheeky black monkey, was the troublemaker of the group. Tito likes to play tag and chase people around. Tito interrupts two other monkeys during their romantic dinner of bananas and peanuts and harasses the male. The chase is on. Tito looks to have the other monkey cornered when the other monkey jumps to the highest balcony. Tito grows tired and gives up, as he comes to us to perform some tricks.

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The following day we reach Ko Phagnan -- the middle sized island in the Gulf of Thailand archipelago. We were forced to take the express vomit cruiser. The Thai crew hands out barf bags before takeoff. About a half an hour into the ride, the first victim falls across from me. Soon thereafter, the child reaches for his bag and deposits his excess. Soon enough, about a dozen passengers join into the fray. Lisa holds her ears as I close my eyes. At least they could have other than the clear colored bags for me to view the evidence.

We stay at a place called the central cottage - an hour's drive on the other side of the island. We huddle into a pickup truck and drive over what could possibly be the poorest maintained roads in all of Thailand. It takes us one hour to go twelve miles, about the same pace as L.A. traffic. We go up and down and up again like popcorn kernels. As long as we don't pop we should be fine.

The cottage is located on the Thong Nai Pan Yai - the big beach of the area. After two days of clouds, the weather turns sunny as the tide recedes. We walk every day to the neighboring beach as it reminds me everything about beaches back home: warm water, nice beaches, good waves, and handsome sandwiches.

Indeed, we eat at a place called 'Handsome Sandwiches'. The Thais make sandwiches and burgers here made to order. One sandwich will put you in pure bliss for the rest of the afternoon. They have tuna sandwiches, burger sandwiches, ham and cheese sandwiches all on a sesame seed bun. I even purchase some T-Shirts to commemorate my journey to the Handsome Sandwiches shop.

The Thais push Christmas on the Tourists as jingle bells, Santa hats, fireworks and Christmas carols fill the holiday. One tradition they have is lighting a small fire within a kite lamp and launching it into the sky. It is a sight to see until the fire kite falls into the trees. My fearsome worries of the kites catching fire in the forest are put to rest as the last fire burns out. We spend the rest of the evening having dinner and swapping stories. While the girls are reminiscing about Christmas at home, the lone Jew could care less. I'm demanding some Dreidels and chocolate gelt for the next trip.

So here we are today, the day after Christmas. The waters are much more calm as I write. We are on our way to Ko Samui, the third of the Gulf of Thailand Islands. Another set of adventures await as you will hear about it first by me. Anchors away. Another island, another day.

-Travelling Sherman

Thailand, Part 2

12/18

Almost a week has passed, and I am still sitting in the same chair in the same restaurant on the same island. Thailand does this to you. These people are quite smart. They have produced a chain of islands that make you never want to return to your home country. They provide good food at low prices, packs of bungalows every half mile, and more smiles than anywhere else on the planet. The island where Lisa and I are living on is Ko Tao. With 80 degree Fahrenheit water, amazing pad Thai noodles at $2/plate, and amazing rooms at $6/night, I see no reason to leave the island.

Even getting to the island is easy. We board the local bus that is Air conditioned, has reclining seats, and toilet paper as far as the eye can see. We happen to be the only westerners on the bus, as the "Lord of the Rings" movie is dubbed into Thai. It's quite funny to hear Gandalf say things like "Wat dee krap" and other broken Thai phrases. This guy must have really been some wizard.

The bus driver stops at the appropriate stop, helps us with our bags, and walks us to the Taxi station without even asking for anything. I am puzzled. The driver wants nothing other than for us to be happy. What a strange concept. I rub my head as I think about it.

We wait a few hours in Chumpon, the mainland port city. Lisa and I are taking the night boat to Ko Tao. After getting some dinner, we hop on the boat to find the accommodation of some dusty twin beds on the floor. We are accompanied by 60 other fellow passengers. People are coughing, farting and belching throughout the evening. The boat begins to rock as I try sleeping on my stomach. It's like a water bed without all the needless markup.

We arrive to the Ko Tao pier at about 5 in the morning. We arrive at the Seashell resort and wait for things to open. About two hours later, Koh, the attendant checks us in to the bungalow. Lisa and I fall asleep soundly to the waves and motor scooters. A Fifteen hour trip to paradise is worth it. Next time, I'll remember to bring the Dramamine....

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Ko Tao is named the turtle island, as it is a haven for divers There are roughly 40 different diving schools to choose from. Our hotel had a deal where we basically get a free room for the hotel if we sign up for their diving school. We do an open water 4-day course and get certified in some of the warmest water on the planet. I feel as Lisa and I are back in school. We get our PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) textbook. We have homework. We have to read three chapters and fill out the study guide. We finally get to paradise and I am taking notes. There is something wrong with this picture.

Our instructor, Fran is great. She is from England and has left her life to start a new one here as an underwater videographer. She helps Lisa and I through everything with ease. While all the regulators and vests seem intimidating at first, Fran makes it simple. It's only Lisa and I in the class. We practice sharing air, cleaning our masks and learning to be buoyant. By the last two days, we dive into open water and see trigger fish, yellow box fish, clownfish (Nemo) among many others. I feel like I'm in SpongeBob's world. Being underwater is like going to the aquarium, except they drop you inside of it instead. It's so peaceful that the 40 minutes you are down there seems like a nanosecond.

I imagine I'll grow tired of the beach, the fresh fish barbecues, the diving and the sun at some point. They even have thrown in some New Year's and Christmas decorations. If only I could find a menorah, it would feel like home.

So it's only right to say Happy Holidays. May the season bring love, joy, happiness and all of the other things that hallmark promises. By all means, take a vacation. I know I have taken my share. One of these days I should enter reality. On second thought, maybe not. So long for now from Thailand. The land of smiles. Keep smiling, wherever you are.

-Travelling Sherman

Thailand, part 1

12/11/06, 11:30 A.M. Local time

What a difference a day makes.

We begin the morning being racially profiled. As we queue up to board the Air India flight to Bangkok, we walk up to the attendant gate where an Indian Military agent stands. After he allows the preceding dozen passengers pass without any hesitation, the agent stops us with his hand with a resounding "No!". When asked why, he simply states "Bag Tag!" Supposedly, not having an Air India bag tag on our carry-on luggage is a threat to their national security. He marches us back through the airport as we are on a wild goose chase to find these bag tags. Meanwhile, countless more Indian nationals board the flight with no bag tags on their carry-ons. Goodbye from India, don't let the door hit you on the way out.

After getting frisked and hassled in the early morning, the arrival into Thailand is a breath of fresh air. From the minute we land into Bangkok and walk off the plane, I begin to appreciate the marvels of a modern city. There are clean toilets, food courts, and beautiful smiling women.

Thailand is a country where pleasure is top priority. Even disagreements or stressful situations are accompanied by smiles. In Asian culture, I'm told it is impolite to express anger. That is why I see so many Thai people laughing so much. They're laughing away any lingering frustrations in their body.

We take the metered taxi into the Banglampu district of Bangkok. This, being the tourist district, has all the creature comforts of home. There is modern music, food of all types, pharmacies that sell dental floss, and central air.

The main road of this district is Ko San Road. When walking down this road, I begin to see more white people than Thai people. I'll gladly take this night of relaxation after enduring a 3 hour night's sleep in Delhi accompanied by horn honking and lizards. Tomorrow, we are going to the island of Ko Tao by a combination of bus and boat. After that, our future is unknown for a while. I think it will involve white sand, ocean water, a beverage and a hammock. Here is to the future. I'll see you in a few days to tell you about it.

-Travelling Sherman