Day 14: Samdo to Dharmasala

I wake up at roughly 6:30 in the morning. I have slept more than 6 hours, which qualifies for fairly well. The yak trains have stopped clammering their bells. I look outside the room and see the bright sunshine. The snow has stopped. A fresh foot of snow has fallen overnight. It looks like we are on for today. We are happy. Lisa and I do the usual morning preparations of stuffing the sleeping bags, airing out the therma-rests, chlorinating the water, packing the day packs with necessary materials such as baby wipes, toilet paper, cliff bars and water.

We finish in record time as breakfast is called at roughly 7:30. Today I try on an extra helping of Rice porridge. Tasty and warm, I have now grown accustomed to it. I eat now not on the whims of my taste buds, but on a need for energy. Vinay has told me that 1/2 the oxygen will exist at 17000 feet and that water and food are more vital than ever. I've supplemented my regimen with some Diamox - altitude sickness pills. Only myself and Bobby are trying the medicine. Gopal claims that I now need to drink 5 litres of water a day. Let me tell you something. If I start trying to drink 5 liters of water a day, I will be urinating more than I walk.

We start the trail at 8 AM. Another 3-4 hour push is scheduled for today. Today's hike calls for a 2,500 ft. climb to reach roughly 14,500 ft. For those of you back in the USA, this is higher than Mt. Whitney - the highest peak in the continental US.

The first stretch is actually quite gradual. After leaving Samdo, I follow the footprints made in the snow. It's a winter wonderland out here, but ironically warm. The sun is shining bright. I have 4 layers of clothes on. We are all cracking jokes and laughing. I continue to drink lots of water. At some point, we need to do a #1 break. Jose, Bobby and I take turns trying to spell our name in the snow.

The next stretch becomes treacherous. Some of the snow has melted and frozen over to ice. There is a 10 degree narrow downhill. To the left is about a 60 ft. drop. Not realizing the severity of the situation, I slip and fall from time to time. I am left frustrated. I curse at the mountain somewhat. Tika comes in and helps me find my footing. Thank the Gods for Tika, he stands at the edge of this path with no problem - pushing and prodding me to a safe haven.

I feel silly for making such a big scene and cursing the mountain. Lisa assures me that all is okay, and that it's better for me to focus on the last 45 minutes of uphill. We still have another 1,000 feet to climb. The 45 minutes feel like hours. Gopal has joined back up with us to help. Eventually, they point to the prayer flags, which symbol the edge of Dharmasala - our campsite. A last 10 minute push and we reach the hilltop.

The porters seem to have an extra set of lungs, as they have already passed us hours ago and set up our tents. Lisa and I put our belongings inside the tent, and take some pictures. I feel like I am at the top of the Swiss Alps. The wind is not strong at the moment, so walking around feels just fine. We take a break for some lunch. It's simple rice and potatoes. The Dahl of the Dahl Bat is no longer so we stick to lots of carbohydrates.

After Lunch, Lisa retires to the tent to read. We are told not to sleep at this altitude. Some of the gang tries to scare us into saying that sleeping by day equals the sleep of death. If I were to die at this altitude, it would not be in vain. I join the guys in doing a short aclamazation hike upwards. Rick and Vinay cruise past us with Gopal at their sides. Anup, Bobby, Jose and myself go for about a half hour and say screw it, there are better things to do.

The sun begins to set and cold start to seep in. We are told to basically where all of your clothing tonight. The temperature should get as low as the low 20's or even teens. We all go into Jose's tent and play more bridge. Five smelly people is the easiest way to keep warm.

Tomorrow lies the big day of crossing the Larke Pass. We are instructed to get up at 3 in the morning as we begin the hike at 4. The idea is that the uphill part should be nothing harder than we have seen before. There is talk of the downhill becomming quite tricky. I try not to let worry ruin my thinking. Get some sleep tonight, even if it's only for 4 hours. In 24 hours from now, we will be in Bimtang and over the pass. And more importantly, we will be over the hump. Hopefully, I'll be over my worries.

Good night from the frostbitten Tent,

Travelling Sherman