Day 5: Machakola

Today, we reach the poopy town of Machakola. I apologize for the vulgar language, but there really is poop everywhere. There is rooster poop, donkey poop, yak poop and every other poop you can think of. After a few mild days of camping in agreeable climates and camp sites, I have a feeling this campsite may leave something to be desired.

Enter the Maoists. This is the political party that has grown immensely over the last decade. Less than 6 months ago, they forced a coup d'etat in which the King of Nepal had to reinstate Parliament. This would sound like an agreeable thing for the King to do. The only problem is that once Parliament got instated, the first thing they did was to create a law to strip the King of his power.

A representative communist democracy. While it may be quite the oxy-moron of a government, this is exactly what has happened. As I write this, the Maoists are predicted to win more that 1/3 of the government legislature. All of this sounds like the birth pangs of a democratic state.

There's one small problem. The Maoists practice extortion along the side.

I will try and explain further. When you enter Nepal, you pay a visa on the spot. The Maoists think the same way for their cause. When you enter Maoist territory, you pay a fee. Delinquent payments are punished lightly at first. Maybe they will simply follow you from town to town. If you refuse to pay further you may be strongly suggested to pay. If you try to really put the screws on them, you may become tomorrow night's evening news.

The village of Machakola represents the first entry point into Maoist territory. As we enter the town, we see English print stating, "Welcome to Machakola. Enjoy your stay". These guys really know how to turn on the hospitality.

We are all on edge tonight. All 7 of us know that at least one of the villagers is associated with the Maoist party. We are now being watched. Everything we do from eating dinner, playing cards or brushing our teeth is carefully studied.
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The cook has bought a goat from across the river. We are alerted that this will be tonight's dinner. A stewed goat. Quite a bit gamey. I guess some little girl just lost her pet.

We realize that little voyeuristic kids stop being cute on day number 3. They like staring at Lisa when she switches out her bra. Paranoid by this, I run around at the kids and flash my shirt to get their attention away.

I am learning to play bridge. Rick and Jose are the experts as I stumble and follow. It reminds me of watching an episode of jeopardy.
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The next morning ,Tufun (translation: Storm) approaches Anup - one of the westerners in our group. Tufun has his hands folded as Anup and Tufun talk in Hindi. At some point, a meeting takes place inside Rick's tent, as he has called all of us over. It's time to fork over the cash. I give roughly 8000 roupees (roughly $100). I've lost the beer money for the rest of the trip. We are upset, but we realize that we have no other option.

After accumulating the money, we are still milling about around the campsite. The hard boiled eggs and chipoti for breakfast has settled in. We see Anup still standing with Tufun. It turns out that Anup has become enthralled into a political discussion with the Maoist representative. Only in Nepal will hardened criminals rob you, then engage you in some healthy debate. Anup may be careful here as to not get an attractive job offer as Maoist village bully. I hear they give better health benefits than the states.

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Not all is bad on this day. I find out more about Nepali culture.

It occurs to me that Nepalis will fake an injury to get any Western medicine they possibly can. For example, a lady in the town has a swelling in her leg, I give her 2 advil. A little boy has a 'broken' arm, we give him 2 advil. We ask both of them the next day how they are feeling and they act as if they never asked us for the medicine. Advil: The placebo medicine 3rd world countries trust the most.

Little Nepali kids are increasingly starting to yell Namaste more frequently the higher we climb in elevation. They also enjoy pens. 'Pen chai no' is the key phrase Gopal teaches us. No. I'm sorry, I left my 'I'm with stupid' pens back home.

We are off again on another 3 hour trip as day 5 turns to day 6. We plan to stay in a town called Jagat. As we march out of Machakola, the group is ready to leave behind salty goat and bitter townspeople. Onward and upward, wherever that is.

-travelling sherman